On a sunny weekend such as this, the overwhelming temptation is to grab an overnight bag, get on a bus, and drive as far away from Accra as possible.
The reasons for this are two-fold: firstly, with its open sewers and conjested traffic, hot days in Accra tend to be steamy and smelly; secondly, upon reaching the city limits, the landscape instantly transforms, and all around is scenery that looks as if it has been plucked out of the pages of National Geographic.
Unfortunately, this weekend I seem to have missed the boat rather, and am stuck exactly where I don't want to be: in the middle of Accra. I was supposed to be lying on a beach somewhere in the Volta region, but, due to the unfavourable weather forecast (ha!), some bright spark suggested that we stay in the city and avoid the rain (her name is Fiona - she is actually very nice, if a little too trusting of BBC Weather).
So, here I am, sitting on the veranda of Mrs Djan's house, writing my postcard.
Whichever direction you are travelling in, immediately after leaving Accra, the view from the road is distinctly tropical. Banana plantations crop up on all sides, as well as fields of sugar cane and cocoa. On top of the low-rising hills on the outskirts of the city perch extravagant-looking houses, presumably boasting enviable views of both Accra and its rather more good looking surrounds.
Driving west toward Cape Coast, this type of landscape remains pretty constant. About an hour or so into the journey, the sea suddenly appears to the left, reminding you of the fact that you are driving along one of the most beautiful coastlines in Africa.
Toward the east and north-east, you approach the Volta region, a huge area famous for Lake Volta and the Akosombo dam, and several associated rivers. Here, the roads wind through mountain foothills, passing waterfalls and crossing waterways. Many of the villages on the banks of the Volta are tiny and remote, their inhabitants living in reed huts and a relying on the lake for access to food, water and bathing.
Although I am yet to visit, I am told that the north of Ghana is another environment altogether. Containing vast arid savannah, the landscape of the north is the type in which you half expect to witness a pride of lions casually devouring an antelope, accompanied by the hushed tones of David Attenborough (who, no doubt, has taken little notice of the fact that you are trying to eat your dinner).
Next weekend, I plan to make good my escape, and head to an eco-lodge near Takoradi, known for its beaches and green turtles. The following Friday, I shall be commencing an epic 15 hour trip up to Bolgatanga, a remote township right on the border with Burkina Faso.
Although long, the journey to Bolga is supposed to be a spectacular one, and, providing that I get a relatively comfy seat on the tro-tro (the weekend before last, I spent four hours thigh-to-thigh with a woman who had a live chicken stuffed in her shopping bag), I quite look forward to it. As for the antelopes and lions, I shall be keeping my eyes peeled.
N.B. Whilst writing this entry, it has started to rain, heavily. I would like to retract all previous comments about both the BBC and Fiona.
Frankie Freeman
Heya Frankie
Gosh! Sounds like you're a very busy girl in Ghana. Looks pretty nuts, but a bit of an adventure. Your daily commute makes me feel a bit lame complaining about the 7am London-bound train!
George and I went surfing in Devon this weekend. Was great to experience the buzz again. You should check out the surf in Ghana! This might help...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUMNlLowAl4
http://magicseaweed.com/Ghana-The-Ivory-Coast-Surf-Forecast/60/
Cheers
NEIL