February 2009 Archives

This comes from Travel Weekly and Travolution reporter Juliet Dennis...

As I write, my chair feels like it's swaying.

The reason? I've just returned from Hurtigruten's A Taste of the Arctic cruise, during which we hit stormy weather for two of three nights aboard.

During two of the nights on board I felt like I was on a mini-rollercoaster ride in my bed. We're not talking Space Mountain, but there were moments of being tipped up and down, followed by the realisation that yes, there were some pretty powerful ocean waves not a million miles from where I was I was lying snug in my bed.

I'm not complaining, mind you. It's just one of many differences of a smaller ship compared to a superliner. You actually feel like you are on a ship.

Hurtigruten - Kong HaraldDepending on what you expect from a cruiseline, other differences include the fact it's up to you to make your own entertainment.

What a relief - there are not a million and one different events, excursions and facilities each day to choose from.

I could, literally, just read my book, drink tea, play cards, walk the deck, and observe and photograph the fantastic scenery. And, of course, relax.

The ship itself - mum and I were on Kong Harald - was well kitted out for our needs. There was one restaurant, one cafe, a few bar/lounges and a small children's play area.

Our outside cabin wasn't posh - our twin beds pulled down from the wall - but lovely and quite spacious enough for the two of us.

Cabin on Hurtigruten's Kong HaraldIn comparison with the big ocean-going liners, there was no glitz. There weren't 17 different bars providing all forms of musical or other entertainment. Ditto no pool, no big screen, and not an ice rink in sight, unless you count some of the icy conditions on land.

Clearly, this means it only suits certain passengers - and makes it abundantly clear that travel agents need to be aware of this when selling this type of cruise to customers.

What it does have, and the reason why we and many like us went on the trip, is the luxury of unadulterated natural scenery that streams past the ship on a constant basis. And at this time of year if you're lucky you'll see an array of colours in the night sky - the infamous northern lights. In the four nights prior to our arrival, passengers were treated to nightly green light shows.

One of the lucky passengers, a chirpy well-travelled lady called Audrey, told us in no uncertain terms this voyage topped her list of favourite trips taken in her lifetime.

Unfortunately for us, nature had not booked us in for a viewing. But what we did get was a ride through the snow on a Santa-like sleigh driven by a team of super-friendly husky dogs who took us up and down the hilly terrain as dusk began to fall.

huskies-2.jpgEyes watering and the sound of delighted barking ringing in our ears, we swallowed in the views and drank in the atmosphere.

It's moments like this you can hardly get enough of, and which undoubtedly made the journey out to Tromso in Norway worthwhile.

Double take

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I've had two rather unexpected sightings on my last two trips abroad.

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I was over in Sharm El Sheikh to see the opening of Soho Square, a complex of restaurants and entertainment facilities in the Sharks Bay area. It's the brainchild of the owner of the Savoy and the Sierra Hotels, which flank the development. In amongst the eateries - Indian, Chinese, Middle Eastern and rather unexpectedly Ukrainian - and clubs and bars, there's also a skating rink. Yes, you can go ice-skating, slap bang in the middle of the Sinai Desert. Apparently, guests had whinged that it got too hot in summer. I suppose it's one way to cool down, though I might opt for the classic, predictable method of jumping in the pool.

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Equally, a trip to Belize threw another curve ball at me. I was down in the southern region of Toledo, an up-and-coming area keen to attract more tourists, being hosted by the luxurious rainforest lodge Machaca Hill. It's a beautiful boutique property set on the banks of the Rio Grande River. No stone is left unturned in Machaca's efforts to give its top notch clientele the perfect holiday. Should they feel the 352 steps leading from the banks of the river up to the lodge, placed high on the hill with views over the tree canopy, are too much to bear, they can ride up in stately luxury in Belize's only funicular railway, specially constructed by the hotel for the purpose. It's a strange site to behold in the middle of the jungle, but the journey is actually a great opportunity to spot exotic birds and the local howler monkeys. Just be careful not to antagonise the latter, as I hear that they tend to react to threats by throwing their own faeces.

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