Middle East: July 2009 Archives

The locals say the Rose City of Petra was made by man but Wadi Rum was made by God. And true enough, Wadi Rum, or 'Moon Valley', is home to some pretty spectactular landscapes.


The desert landscapes of Wadi Rum.JPG

Dunes and desert stretch for miles amid the rocky outcrops. And it was from this very area that the British Army Officer T. E. Lawrence led the successful Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Turks. Later the director David Lean would use these stunning desert landscapes to great effect in his Oscar winning film Lawrence of Arabia.


Camels at Wadi Rum, Jordan.JPG


Camels and jeeps criss-cross the area, ferrying visitors between Bedouin tents that offer ample opportunities to top up on souvenirs and tea before moving on to the next stage of the Lawrence tour, such as the watering hole Lawrence is said to have used.


Lawrence's Spring.JPG

Another key site is the Seven Pillars of Wisdom, a local mountain which is either named after Lawrence's book of the same name, or vice versa, depending on who you talk to.


The Seven Pillars of Wisdom, Wadi Rum.JPG


To better see the area through Lawrence's eyes, visitors can opt to sleep under the stars (as long as they leave their details with the local Bedouin police beforehand) and enjoy some Bedouin-style hospitality in the desert.


My driver, Ali.JPG


And for those with more time on their hands there are many tented camps in the area.


Bait Ali Desert Lodge, Wadi Rum.JPG

A visit to the ancient city of Petra in Jordan is a highlight of any trip to Jordan.

Making the approach to Petra down the  'siq' - a narrow, winding passageway through the mountains - is an experience in itself, especially when your guide is as entertaining as mine was. Mahmoud's knowledge of 'The Rose City' was matched only by his dazzling array of jokes and anecdotes.

The Elephant Stone in the Siq.JPG


But exploring the siq is a mere prelude to the point where, as you turn that last corner, the Treasury tantalisingly reveals itself.

Seen for the first time, the treasury's carved edifice, hewn from the sandstone rock, is a truly impressive, if strangely familiar sight, having stared out from countless travel guides and brochures  - not to mention Hollywood romps like Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

The treasury.JPG


But there's a lot more to Petra than the Treasury. A particular highlight was the visit to the Monastery, made memorable not least for the perilous donkey ride up to the site.

Monastery.JPG


While Mahmoud gagged his way up the mountain, his energy levels buoyed by his 60-a-day cigarette habit and the seven sugars he'd been spooning into his regular cups of tea, I hung on for dear life as my donkey reluctantly slip-slided up the narrow mountain pathway while it looked for a good spot to buck its heavy load over the edge and make a bolt for freedom.

Bedouin King for a day.JPG


But it was all worth it. Wandering around the Monastery and taking in the amazing panoramas, having topped up my tea levels in the cave café while Mahmoud traded tales and jokes with the other guides, was a truly amazing experience.

Mahmoud on top of the World.JPG