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Seychelles: Curious coconuts

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There are many different varieties of coconut across the world, but surely one of the strangest is indigenous to the Seychelles, and predominantly to the island of Praslin. In the centre of this small island is the Vallee de Mai nature reserve. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to the Coco de Mer. Swathes of these palms tower above and make a strange rattling sound when the wind moves their vast, 10m-long leaves around.

Coco de Mer palm

Despite its name it has nothing to do with the sea; however, its strangely shaped nuts were washed up on faraway beaches and those who found them thought they were some exotic marine plant.

Every Coco de Mer palm has a gender. Unsurprisingly, this one is male.

Male Coco de Mer palm

Even more uncanny is the female. On the tree, the nuts may look innocuous enough.

Female Coco de Mer Palm

But once the outer husk is stripped away, the seed is revealed, rather resembling a shapely female bottom.

Female Coco de Mer coconut

This symbol is everywhere in the Seychelles, even on the stamp you get in your passport.

Seychelles passport stamp 





Seychelles: Tortoise time

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The pace of life on the island of La Digue is so slow that even the local giant tortoises seem relatively dynamic. There are only ten vehicles on the island - everyone else meanders around on bicycles, and even a wedding party are taken to their beach-side ceremony by ox cart.

Ox cart on La Digue, Seychelles

The tortoises themselves live in the shade of a giant hunk of granite - the type of rock which forms the Seychelles islands. This group range in age from 30 to 90 years and in scale from the circumference of a large dinner plate right up to something the size (and probably twice the weight) of a substantial coffee table.

Seychelles giant tortoise

Tourists can help themselves to fresh leaves from a nearby pile and feed the tortoises over a low wall. They're greedy creatures, their mouths opening and shutting as if by clockwork, even when they're half asleep.

Tortoise on La Digue

Our favourite, who we nicknamed Fatty, was the largest and greediest of all. He happily knocked to one side or even bundled over his smaller cousins to reach the leaves if we attempted to share them with other tortoises.

Fatty the tortoise

In the space of half an hour he ate the best part of a tree and tried to mount two of the other tortoises. Neither seemed keen, the second repelling him so forcibly he was turned right over on to his back. We did worry he might be stranded with his legs waving in the air, but after a few minutes swaying from side to side he managed to right himself. Don't let anyone tell you tortoises are slow or boring - at least, not on La Digue.

Seychelles: Island hopping

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The Seychelles are made up of 115 islands, but most visitors will stay on the three largest - Mahe, Praslin, and La Digue.

It's possible to fly between islands, but travelling by boat is far more picturesque. We took the Cat Cocos high speed catamaran between Mahe and Praslin. 

Cat Cocos catamaran between Mahe and Praslin, Seychelles

For an extra €15 upgrade, you can be ushered into the air-conditioned Lazio lounge where you'll be plied with complementary drinks and canapes for the one hour journey. However, the view is better from the cheap seats on the top deck.

Top deck, Cat Cocos catamaran, Seychelles

Between Praslin and La Digue a similarly speedy catamaran service is run by William Rose, but for the ultimate in laid-back Seychelles spirit take the cheerful yellow Silhouette single-masted launches.

Silhouette launches run between Praslin and La Digue

We spent the journey watching flying fish skimming across the wave-crests and even spotted a school of dolphins, their sleek backs arching through the water. There's no way we'd have seen all that from a plane! 

Silhouette between Praslin and La Digue
 

Seychelles: Market moments

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Victoria, the capital of the Seychelles and its largest conurbation, still seems incredibly small - there are just three roundabouts and only one set of lonely traffic lights, with signs preceding it so drivers aren't too surprised by the changing shades of red, amber and green.

Where you will find hustle and bustle is at the splendidly-named Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke market. 

Victoria market, Seychelles

Tables groan with fresh fruit and vegetables and packets of spices.

Vegetables at Victoria market, Seychelles

Along one side runs a long stone bench where fishermen display their colourful catches.

Fish at Victoria Market, Seychelles

We watched as one man expertly sliced up a small shark. Even though I'm vegetarian, I'm happier to see the shark in a market rather than swimming towards me!

Man slicing up shark, Victoria market, Seychelles

At his feet, long-necked white birds peck about, snatching scraps of fish.

Birds in Victoria Market, Seychelles

The Seychellois have to import a large amount of life's necessities, a fact reflected by the relatively high prices of many items in the local supermarket. Brits who can't do without their HP are well catered for - but they will need to shell out around £1.50 for a bottle.

HP sauce, Seychelles

Seychelles: A nice cuppa

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Indigenous drinks of the Seychelles? Yes, rum is one, but you can also sip a nice cup of local char.

seychelles tea logo
High up in the cooler air of the mountains on Mahe, the largest of the Seychelles islands, in amongst swathes of untouched jungle, there are terraces of tea plantations.

Seychelles tea plantations
Once the leaves are picked, they're taken to a factory where they're dried, sifted, sorted, shaken all about and then packaged loose or sealed into individual bags, all by antiquated-looking but well-functioning machinery.

Seychelles tea factory
Some of the tea is mixed with essence of citronelle - what we know as lemongrass - to make a brew which not only wards off mosquitos, but will also allegedly sort out your arthritis. Useful stuff, and it tastes good too.

Seychelles tea sculpture

Seychelles: Le Relaxing

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With beaches like this ten a penny, it's pretty difficult not to fall in love with the Seychelles.

IMG_3539.JPG
This is the beach at Anse Royale, on Mahe. Our hotel is called 'Le Relax', and tries to make it as easy as possible to do so. Sitting on the terrace with an ice-cold Seybrew beer, we watch the sky turning from blue to a nicotine-stained yellow as the sun goes down.

seychelles sunset
Above us, large fruit bats circle on the evening air currents. They can sometimes look a little foolish with their big heads and chunky feet - like bumble bees, too large to fly - but they bring a real novelty to the evening, and we're told they make a darn good Creole curry.

seychelles fruitbat